Production of creped fabrics having strand components of the acetylated cellulose class



Patented Aug. 31, 1937 I UNITED STATES PRODUCTION OF CREPED FABRICS HAVING STRAND COMPONENTS OF THE ACETY- LATED CELLULOSE CLASS Edmond H. Bcynier, Passaic, N. J.

No Drawing. Application November 13, 1936, Serial No. 110,709

3 Claims.

It is known that when strands composed of certain synthetic filaments are treated with a size or other water-adhesive solution, are then twisted with consequent tensioning of their filaments and are then, as so twisted and held in that state by the size, incorporated or bound in as the components of a fabric sheet and finally the size is discharged, the liberation of the strands by the size is attended by a change in the form of the strand filaments, as by contraction, which imparts to the fabric product some decorative effect, as by creping it. This may of course be an all-over effect or it may be such that only localized portions of the fabric, as figures, appear creped.

But there are strands composed of certain synthetic filaments, as of the acetylated cellulose group, as cellulose acetate, whose filaments when the treatment is carried out in the same way have heretofore been found substantially inert when on the discharge of the size or equivalent adhesive the strands are liberated; in other words, when the treatment is performed with the use of strands l composed of filaments of this classit has heretofore been recognized as impossible to have their filaments manifest any substantial change in form which would impart a crepy appearance to the fabric following the discharge of the adhesive. This is because, when wetted with water of the size solution, strands composed of filaments of the first class are elastic whereas strands composed of filaments of the second class become substantially inelastic or substantially ductile, having only about 2%% of elasticity, when dried.

Now, though synthetic material of the acetylated cellulose class may become substantially ductile when treated with water or other fiuid which makes it susceptible to stretching or elongation, I have discovered that if while subject to such liquid, or ductile, it is stretched and then dried while still maintained stretched it attains appreciably more elasticity, at least such a degree of elasticity as to adapt strands formed of such material to be used in producing crepy effects in fabrics and to render fabrics rather elastic than ductile. Thus, whereas the untreated material will have only about 2 of elasticity the thus treated material can be made to have as much as 13% of elasticity.

If such material be in the form of strands each composed of filaments thereof the strands may be treated with an adhesive-water solution as a gelatin size, then while remaining wetted by the solution they may be stretched and, while maintained stretched, dried, and finally twisted thus to tension their filaments, the adhesive retaining them in their twisted and thus tensioned state.

Further, such strands may be used to produce crepy effects in fabrics. As an example of the application of my discovery in this way I explain as follows:

Cellulose acetate strands are wetted by a size (as a gelatin) solution and while still wet they are stretched and while maintained stretched and with their size coating still thereon, of course, they are allowed to dry. Then they are twisted, then they are incorporated as components of a fabric sheet, as of either its warp or weft or both. Then the sheet is treated with a detergent or other bath which will discharge the size, thus liberating the acetate cellulose strands (more or less tensioned by the twisting) which, when the fabric sheet has dried, will have changed their form, as by contracting.

One known procedure in forming creped fabrics is to use two weft carriers, one having its weft twisted right-hand and the other left-hand, both twists being of course preserved by some adhesive, as a size; pass both weft-carriers through each shed of the warp as it is formed; and finally, on the completion of the weaving, discharge the adhesive. Of course this procedure may be followed in the practice of my invention.

Since the essential feature of-the invention is the application of some fluid to the material which will render it ductile, then the stretching of the material while it is ductile and then the setting the material while still maintaining the stretch (as, when the fluid is water, drying the material), I do not wish to be limited to the use of water to render the material ductile. By setting" I mean either removing the fluid, as by drying in the case of water, or so changing its character, as in the case of certain oils, as linseed oil, which might be used to render the material ductile, that the oil is vno longer in fluid state.

Having thus fully described my invention what I claim is: v.

1. The method of forming the hereindescribed strand component ofa fabric sheet to be acted upon bya discharge treatment which consists in treating a strand composed of acetylated cellulose filaments in relaxed state with a fluid which will render said filaments ductile and until they become ductile and while subjecting the strand to an adhesive which will hold the strand when distorted in distorted state, stretching the strand while itis still substantially ductile, and setting the strand with the adhesive thereon and while maintaining the stretch and without changing the chemical combination of the filaments, whereby to render the strand elastic and provide it with a,medium which, on distortion thereof, will hold it distorted. v

2. The method of forming the hereindescribed fabric having as a component thereof strands, composed of acetylated cellulose filaments which consists in treating the strands with a fluid which will render the filaments ductile and until they become ductile and while subjecting the strands to an adhesive which will hold the strands when distorted in distorted state, stretching the strands while they are still substantially ductile, setting the strands with the adhesive thereon and while maintaining the stretch and without changing the chemical combination of the filaments, whereby to render the strands elastic and provide them with a medium which, on distortion thereof, will hold them distorted, then" 20 incorporating the strands as so distorted in a fabric sheet, andfinally discharging the adhesive.

3. The method of forming the hereindescitibed fabric having as a component thereof strands composed of acetylated cellulos filaments which consists in treating the strands with a fluid which will render the filaments ductile and until they become ductile and while subjecting the strands to an adhesive which will hold the strands when twisted in twisted state, stretching the strands while they are still substantially ductile, setting the strands with the adhesive thereon and while maintaining the stretch and without changing the chemical combination of the filaments, whereby to render the strands elastic and provide them with a medium which, on twisting thereof, will hold them twisted, then incorporating the strands as so twisted in a fabric sheet, and finally discharging the adhesive.

EDMOND H. REYNIER. 

